hom: A journey of intense flavours through fermentation

CONTENT: Yiew Kai Jie

If you have the opportunity to stay at the InterContinental Phuket Resort, you need to check out hom and its special 10-moments concept menu! Hidden within the heart of the resort, in the ethereal Sawaan Pavilion, lies hom Restaurant—a dining experience that transcends the ordinary and elevates the concept of fermentation to an art form. Rooted in locavorism, seasonality, and a deep-seated curiosity, hom offers a 10-course journey-tasting menu that explores the nuanced flavors unlocked through fermentating local ingredients found in Phuket!

The journey to hom goes through a serene passage of symmetrical gardens, enhanced by a gentle mist that evokes the sensation of walking on clouds. The pavilion itself appears to float against the backdrop of the night, welcoming diners into an elegant, pure white enclave adorned with silvery and pearl accents. The silverleaf patterns on the curved ceiling depict the Himmapan theme, setting a star-like celestial stage for the culinary adventure ahead.

From the moment guests set foot in the Sawaan Pavilion, they are transported into a world inspired by 14th-century Buddhist cosmology. The staff, well-versed in the art of hospitality, greeted us by name and treated every guest with the utmost care and attention befitting royalty. From the moment we arrived to the time we departed, we were made to feel like VIPs, enhancing the overall dining experience.

Our gastronomic adventure at hom began with an introduction to the restaurant’s use of fermentation techniques by Chef Ricardo himself, alongside an amuse-bouche that showcases what hom has to offer. We realised that hom’s wine pairing concept was a little unconventional as compared to other establishments as most start with light wines which eventually move on to heavier body wines. Despite that, the establishment believes in going back and forth to showcase the best pairing experience that best executes the fermentation concept that their wines and food have to offer to their guests.

The first visually striking course, Oyster and S.C.O.B.Y blends western and traditional Thai flavors, where the sweetness of the oysters harmonizes with the fermented kombucha, creating a multi-dimensional flavor profile that sets the tone for the experience ahead. The course is paired with Marie Copinet’s ‘Nos Pas Dans la Terre Complantée, a champagne with a distinctive bone-dry palate finish with notes of fresh red fruits like raspberries and strawberries. The champagne helps to neutralise the flavours and acts as a palate cleanser and happens to be the only restaurant in Thailand that serves this champagne!

Next, the Seafood Tostada and Caviar is a showstopping edible art piece that showcases the freshness of the seafood, accentuated by the fermentation process that enhances the choron sauce, bringing together the proteins and caviar in a symphony of flavors.

The third course, Sea Snail Skewer and Cured Egg, is simply steamed without any additional flavouring to showcase the natural sweetness and flavours of the sea snail. The dish is paired with the Ansgar Clusserath Riesling Vom Schiefer. For the uninitiated first-time diners such as ourselves, the sea snail makes its presence known with its heavy funky taste that lingers on the palate, but the herbous and citrus notes of the riesling help to balance out the sweetness of the protein, alongside the richness of the cured egg. The crisp finish of the wine also helped to rinse out the taste of the sea snail with its balanced mineral notes and reset our palates for the next course.

The fourth course, Rice Koji and Soft Shell Crab, comes served in a small basket of wheat, is a playful exploration of fermentation. The rice koji, reminiscent of Japanese mochi, pairs beautifully with the soft shell crab nestled within, creating a simple yet flavourful dish for us to enjoy!

The fifth course, Tartare and Whey showcase buffalo tartare served on a buffalo horn that delivers a burst of flavour almost reminiscent of a crocodile-beef fusion dish. Although it’s paired with a glass of Baby Bandito Follow your dreams Testalonga Swartland South Africa 2021, this was probably the weakest wine pairing of the evening as it failed to make an impression due to its weak flavour and did not add any depth to the dish.

The Jao Mapraw Clam and Umeboshi course is another palate cleanser, though the clam’s presence is subtle, allowing the fermented umeboshi flavors to take center stage.

The seventh course, Bread and Charcuterie is probably hom’s main showstopper that brings home its core message of fermentation to its guests. With an array of fermented sausages and cured meats alongside freshly baked bread made in-house, the wide variety of flavours are paired with a medium-bodied Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Breteche 2014, whose structured notes of raspberry and earthy undertones cuts through the richness of the meats.

The Rock Lobster and Kumquat Kosho, paired with a glass of Wittmann Silvaner 2021, balances creamy and smoky flavors with tom yum essences and the sour plum flavor of the wine that also acts as a digestif, creating a harmonious and well-rounded dish.

The Grouper and Seasonal Summer Ragout, paired with a glass of Naked White, Heinrich Burgenland, Austria 2021, is cooked to perfection, with the earthy notes of the sauce enhancing the delicate flavor of the fish. The wine’s versatility lends a smooth citrus taste to the protein that adds depth without hindering the raw flavours of the dish- reflected by the pairing’s “naked” and unadorned nature.

Lastly, the meal concluded on a sweet note with an array of seasonal desserts and hom’s own signature homebrewed tea set, offering a delightful end to an insightful culinary journey through the world of fermentation that has been both educational and delicious.

After a long 3-hour dinner, we received a personalised curated memories bag, filled with thoughtful mementos that encouraged us to reminisce about our experience at hom which includes a sample of the tea we just had with our dessert. To us, this parting gift encapsulated the restaurant’s commitment to creating lasting memories through exceptional service and extraordinary cuisine.

In conclusion, hom Restaurant at the InterContinental Phuket Resort offers a dining experience that is both innovative and immersive. Its strong focus on fermentation and the use of local, seasonal ingredients result in dishes that are complex, flavorful, and unforgettable. The staff’s impeccable service and knowledge of each course of the meal helped to enhance the experience and made it all the more enjoyable! Paired with a carefully curated selection of wines, the menu at hom is a journey through the art of fermentation, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts and luxury travelers alike. As the establishment’s goal is to attain its first Michelin Star in 2024, we have no doubt that they will succeed in obtaining the prestigious award!

hom’s Experience 10-moments menu is priced at THB 4,750++ per person. Beverage pairings include the fermentation-focused pairing, priced at THB 1,575++ per person and the wine pairing at THB 2,950++ per person.

hom is located at InterContinental Phuket Resort, 333, 333/3 Moo 3, Kathu District, Phuket 83150, Thailand.